I had my own “Terminal” moment the other day while trying to get home from Shinjuku – yet another crowded part of town where the rail station has 15 exits. I was on my way home after running some errands. I tried to enter the station to get home, but strangly enough, found only JR line entrances. This is one of the “other” train lines, not the main subway line nor the one I wanted. You see, you need a different ticket for the JR line and if you put in the regular subway ticket (which I did) the machine spits out your pass and the little gates close so you can't enter (it did, to yet another instance of me disgracing my home country). Yes, people were watching and shook their head in disappointment. Politely, but still.
I tried to retrace my steps to where I came out, and ended up walking into several other “JR” entrances before I got to one that would let me in. It wasn’t my subway line, but I figured once I got in, I could pull out my -trusty train atlas - yes, there is an entire 119 page book that helps you get around Tokyo and trust me, you need it!! I walked and walked, going up escalators, around corners, up stairs, down hallways, down stairs, around more corners, down escalators, all underground, having visions of not be able to find my way out and ending up living in the subway, like Tom Hanks did in the airport in “Terminal”.
Finally I saw a subway that would get me close enough to home and followed the signs – 10 minutes later I am still walking and I see my line – a smile grew on my face and my pace got a little quicker - that little green circle with the N in the middle never looked so good!!
I’m home now.
Monday, July 31, 2006
The Shriners
All over Tokyo, in between the shopping malls and office buildings, are various kinds of shrines. We went to two of them today; the Meiji Jingu Shrine, dedicated to the emperor and empress who helped open Japan up to the outside world more than 100 years ago; and the Togo Shrine, dedicated to Admiral Heihachiro Togo, who was in charge of the fleet that defeated the Russian army during the Russo-Japanese war. To get to either one of them, one first has to brave the teen haven that is Harajuku. This is where most Japanese teenagers hang out on Sundays. They are dressed in the most trendy of Japanese fashions, if they are not costumed in the favorite Anime character’s outfits. It truly is a site to see.
A beautiful stone covered path leads the way to the Meiji Jingu Shrine. It is shaded and quiet, which provides much needed relief from the sun and noisy streets of Harajuku. One could spend a whole day exploring the grounds – it is so serene.
Again we made our way past the teenagers, feeling older and older the farther down the street we went, on our way to the Togo Shrine. Unfortunately, it was closed when we got there. However, this man did not let a closed door stop him from his prayers.
Denny's
yes, that Denny's - you are reading correctly
Today Husband-san’s colleague Stuart took us around and showed us more of our new neighborhood and Tokyo in general. Prior to returning to his almost native San Francisco, he lived here for about two years and his apartment was not far from where our new one is. We started our day at Denny's for an American breakfast; bacon, eggs, sausage and toast – delish!!
Then, we wondered around Meguro, the next town over from ours. He showed us the good market and fruit stand, the yoga studio and good Thai restaurant that is all a nice walk or quick subway ride away. Unfortunately, his favorite Ramen shop closed down (sorry Jed!). We walked back to the subway station in Shrokanedai for a subway ride on the JR line (the train that runs around the main part of Tokyo – kind of like the Beltway in DC) to BIC camera, a huge electronic and well, a little bit of everything store. We wondered around from floor to floor looking for cables and headsets, passing children’s toys, kitchen appliances and wine on the way. They had the biggest selection of IPOD paraphernalia I have ever seen.
Back on the JR line, we made our way to Ebisu, another area close to where we will live. We stopped at the English language used bookstore, a crowded and airless space on the third floor of a small office building. They have the largest selection of English language books and it’s great if you can find what you want. By 3pm we were all wiped, as the humidity gets to everyone after a few hours out running around.
Nap time!!!
Saturday, July 29, 2006
Ole Ole
We went out for Mexican food last night to a highly recommended place called La Fiesta, located in Roppongi. It was our first time visiting the “party central” area and it was definitely a partying place. We passed a sports bar where most of the patrons were foreigners and saw the Hard Rock CafĂ© across the street. We found the restaurant with little trouble – it is located on the second floor of a building. One of the more surprising things about Tokyo is the location of stores and restaurants – they turn up in the most unlikely places and if you are not careful, you can miss them completely.
La Fiesta turned out to be on the second floor of a small building. They didn’t have a table right away, so they sent us downstairs (to the floor below street level) to their tapas bar for a drink, where I promptly ordered a marguerita in keeping with the Mexican theme. There was a salsa class going on – five people, all Asian, following the bespectacled teacher. I suggested to Husband-san we join in, but as with all white men, he had not had enough to drink to get on the dance floor. He promised to “dance later”, but I didn’t believe him.
After about twenty minutes, a waitress came down from the restaurant to tell us our table was ready. We followed her upstairs with drinks in hand and were promptly seated. Everyone spoke English so we had no trouble ordering and the food was quite good. On the way home, Husband-san made good on his promise….
ole!!!
Thursday, July 27, 2006
To Pass the Time
So as to not sit in front of the computer trolling for answers about my impending motherhood and get my mind off the chaos that would ensue if we actually got our referral this month, I did the only thing I could think of that would occupy my mind - I went shoe shopping - to an area called Shinjuku - a crazy, busier than Times Square where there is actually a mini-Empire State Building and more stores than Ginza. The subway station has 14 different exits and I even though I was there for over three hours, I barely left the station, even after visiting several department stores and mall areas. The best was Lumine, a seven or eight story building that had little boutiques on each floor. It had Kelsey's name written all over it as the clothing was the young and hip (I am slowly coming to the sad and pitiful conclusion that I am neither of those things anymore). I then headed over to Takashimiya and after circling around and around the shoe department, finally selected a very comfortable pair of flats. Me, in flats!, but after my little spill down the stairs, I am determined not to have that happen again. Plus, I am walking so much I really need shoes that are not going to hurt my feet.
So of course, I wore them out today for the first time today and promptly got two lovely little blisters on my feet - I just can't win.
So of course, I wore them out today for the first time today and promptly got two lovely little blisters on my feet - I just can't win.
Wednesday, July 26, 2006
Oh My......
Ok, so let’s all say it together... “Jennifer is freaking out!!!!” The rumors now say LID’s of 7/27 are being matched. Now, keep in mind this may only be a rumor, but........... at this moment, this very moment, I may be becoming a mother and not even know it. There may be a child in China that now has the name “DiLaura”. Oh my God!!!!!
Who is she? Where is she? How old is she? How big is she? Is she sitting up by herself? Is she eating solid food? Is she a happy baby? Does she sleep through the night? I don’t know how I am going to be able to function until I know for sure. I have emailed my agency and am waiting for a reply. All this waiting - all of the anticipation – could it be over? – will I know? will I finally know.......oh my God!!!!!
This wasn’t supposed to happen. July was a big month – as big as May and June. It was supposed to take more than a month to get through the entire month of referrals. We were supposed to be able to get settled before the referral. Our stuff isn’t even here and won’t be until the end of August! It’s sitting on a boat somewhere in the middle of the ocean. We don’t even have our new apartment until the end of August! We have to update the homestudy and don’t even have a social worker yet? Oh my God!!!!!!
Who is she? Where is she? How old is she? How big is she? Is she sitting up by herself? Is she eating solid food? Is she a happy baby? Does she sleep through the night? I don’t know how I am going to be able to function until I know for sure. I have emailed my agency and am waiting for a reply. All this waiting - all of the anticipation – could it be over? – will I know? will I finally know.......oh my God!!!!!
This wasn’t supposed to happen. July was a big month – as big as May and June. It was supposed to take more than a month to get through the entire month of referrals. We were supposed to be able to get settled before the referral. Our stuff isn’t even here and won’t be until the end of August! It’s sitting on a boat somewhere in the middle of the ocean. We don’t even have our new apartment until the end of August! We have to update the homestudy and don’t even have a social worker yet? Oh my God!!!!!!
Monday, July 24, 2006
All of Your Japanese Appliance Questions Answered
I am finally figuring out how to use most of the appliances in the apartment thanks to this great website.
Most importantly, I have learned which button on the toilet is for the spray (there are two kinds, based on the desired direction of flow - use your imagination), which is for air (cold or warm) and which actually heats the toilet seat. Now, in the dead of winter, I can see how this may come in handy, but right now, in the heat and humidity of July in Tokyo, the sensation is similar to sitting on a metal bench that has been placed in direct sunlight - ouch!!!
Most importantly, I have learned which button on the toilet is for the spray (there are two kinds, based on the desired direction of flow - use your imagination), which is for air (cold or warm) and which actually heats the toilet seat. Now, in the dead of winter, I can see how this may come in handy, but right now, in the heat and humidity of July in Tokyo, the sensation is similar to sitting on a metal bench that has been placed in direct sunlight - ouch!!!
Sunday, July 23, 2006
Dear Tess,
Hope you are having fun with Julie, Stuart and Jack. Good News - we found a new place to live and there is lots of room for you to run around and balconies too, so you can go outside without a leash - what fun!!!
Here is a picture of the new building:
Yes, front steps too!!!
We walked around what will be our new neighborhood and I'm sure you will like it. There are lots of parks that allow dogs. Also, many of the restaurants we saw allowed dogs; in fact, the one we had lunch in not only allowed dogs, but fed them as well. Several of your contemporaries were busy chowing down on either snacks or full meals, lovingly brought by the bowtied waiters. There were a couple of dachunds that were not behaving and a little Boston Terrier that had the nerve to puts it's paws on the table.
There will be done of this un-restaurant worthy behavior from you as I know you will sit like the nice little dog you are and behave yourself.
The grocery store has wee-wee pads, so you won't have to go out when 1) you don't want to 2) we don't want to take you, or 3)the typhoon hits. Still no progress on the Science Diet. Perhaps you will like Japanese dog food - we are definitely enjoying the people food here.
There are many pet boutiques that sell little doggie outfits. Don't worry, I know how much you hate getting dressed up and I promise, I will not put you in anything other than your leash.
And no, you can cannot have this chandelier bed in the window - yes, I know you would look fabulous in it, but the answer is still no.
miss you lots,
mommysan
Here is a picture of the new building:
Yes, front steps too!!!
We walked around what will be our new neighborhood and I'm sure you will like it. There are lots of parks that allow dogs. Also, many of the restaurants we saw allowed dogs; in fact, the one we had lunch in not only allowed dogs, but fed them as well. Several of your contemporaries were busy chowing down on either snacks or full meals, lovingly brought by the bowtied waiters. There were a couple of dachunds that were not behaving and a little Boston Terrier that had the nerve to puts it's paws on the table.
There will be done of this un-restaurant worthy behavior from you as I know you will sit like the nice little dog you are and behave yourself.
The grocery store has wee-wee pads, so you won't have to go out when 1) you don't want to 2) we don't want to take you, or 3)the typhoon hits. Still no progress on the Science Diet. Perhaps you will like Japanese dog food - we are definitely enjoying the people food here.
There are many pet boutiques that sell little doggie outfits. Don't worry, I know how much you hate getting dressed up and I promise, I will not put you in anything other than your leash.
And no, you can cannot have this chandelier bed in the window - yes, I know you would look fabulous in it, but the answer is still no.
miss you lots,
mommysan
The Comforts of Home
Amazingly, we can get H&H bagels here, along with Philadelphia cream cheese. Ok, so the bagels are frozen and the cream cheese is the japanese version of Philadelphia brand, but still............. our breakfast was quite tasty.
We also bought bagels at a store in Hiroo, called "Bagel & Bagel". They claim to have "New York Style Bagels" but I must say, in New York I never saw "pumpkin seed", "soymilk and edamame" or "volcano" bagels. I had the pumpkin seed one for breakfast and it was bagelicious!!!
Friday, July 21, 2006
46,730 yen later, I'm just fine
For those of you who are not aware of the conversion rate, that's about $400. That is what it cost me to find out I am experiencing an acute case of acid reflux and indigestion. From the food? The stress of a life altering move? The fact that I am now an alien wife in a strange and mysterious land?
For the past few days, I've been having pains in my chest. They came and went and I attributed them to jet lag, new food, etc. Before leaving New York, I had a complete physical complete with EKG and was fine. Today I decided to be on the safe side, to go to the doctor. I called the clinic that is in the complex where we live. Arny had gone there to get his company physical and said the doctor spoke English,so I thought it would be a safe bet. Sadly, the receptionist didn't speak English and my few words of Japanese were not enough to communicate. So, I went down to the front desk and asked if they would call and make the appointment for me. The man at the desk asked me to describe what the problem was and then said I should go to the Tokyo Clinic, the same place Arny's boss had recommended, but not the clinic next door. He called and made the appointment and at 11:30 a.m. a cab was waiting downstairs for me.
I met with the doctor, who asked me lots of questions, filled out a lot of paperwork, did a short exam where I had to "breath in, breath out" and then sent me off to another room for an EKG. It was kind of funny, in a charming polite Japanese way. For those who have had an EKG, you know the little clips and pads they attach to various parts of your body? Every time the technician attached one, he said "excuse me, thank you" in English. I laughed to myself because while those are two phrases I would have actually understood in Japanese, he was saying them in English, depriving me of being able to respond. But wait, I don't know how to respond to that. How do you say "no problem" in Japanese?
After about seven rounds of "excuse me, thank you", everything was in place and all of a sudden the sound of my heartbeat filled the room. Something fell and my heartbeat got faster(a quick "excuse me, sorry" from the technician). After that, I got dressed and went into another room where they took blood.
Now finished, I went to the front to check out. Imagine my surprise when they said they didn't take the Japanese insurance card as this was a private clinic. I had to pay and then get reimbursed, either by them or by the expat insurance policy. 43,730 yen. They took the Expat insurance form and said they would send it to me in a couple of weeks. I pulled out the trusty American Express card and quickly signed my name on the receipt.
I then went to the pharmacy downstairs where another 2500 yen later, I had my seven little pills and my day was complete.
I would have much rather bought shoes...
For the past few days, I've been having pains in my chest. They came and went and I attributed them to jet lag, new food, etc. Before leaving New York, I had a complete physical complete with EKG and was fine. Today I decided to be on the safe side, to go to the doctor. I called the clinic that is in the complex where we live. Arny had gone there to get his company physical and said the doctor spoke English,so I thought it would be a safe bet. Sadly, the receptionist didn't speak English and my few words of Japanese were not enough to communicate. So, I went down to the front desk and asked if they would call and make the appointment for me. The man at the desk asked me to describe what the problem was and then said I should go to the Tokyo Clinic, the same place Arny's boss had recommended, but not the clinic next door. He called and made the appointment and at 11:30 a.m. a cab was waiting downstairs for me.
I met with the doctor, who asked me lots of questions, filled out a lot of paperwork, did a short exam where I had to "breath in, breath out" and then sent me off to another room for an EKG. It was kind of funny, in a charming polite Japanese way. For those who have had an EKG, you know the little clips and pads they attach to various parts of your body? Every time the technician attached one, he said "excuse me, thank you" in English. I laughed to myself because while those are two phrases I would have actually understood in Japanese, he was saying them in English, depriving me of being able to respond. But wait, I don't know how to respond to that. How do you say "no problem" in Japanese?
After about seven rounds of "excuse me, thank you", everything was in place and all of a sudden the sound of my heartbeat filled the room. Something fell and my heartbeat got faster(a quick "excuse me, sorry" from the technician). After that, I got dressed and went into another room where they took blood.
Now finished, I went to the front to check out. Imagine my surprise when they said they didn't take the Japanese insurance card as this was a private clinic. I had to pay and then get reimbursed, either by them or by the expat insurance policy. 43,730 yen. They took the Expat insurance form and said they would send it to me in a couple of weeks. I pulled out the trusty American Express card and quickly signed my name on the receipt.
I then went to the pharmacy downstairs where another 2500 yen later, I had my seven little pills and my day was complete.
I would have much rather bought shoes...
Thursday, July 20, 2006
Where unwanted fortunes go
Old town Tokyo, with narrow winding streets lined with tiny little shops. That is Asakusa - also home to Tokyo's oldest temple, the Sensoki Temple. To get there, you must go though Nakamise Dori, the "inside shop street" and past an area where you can buy a fortune.
I did of course.
I put 100 yen in a box and picked up a round cylinder filled with wooden sticks. You are supposed to shake it upside down until a long stick falls out. My stick fell out immediately, like it was waiting for me to show up. There is writing on the stick and I had to match that up with the same writing on one of the many drawers in front of me. I found the drawer right away and pulled my fortune out. Of course, it was written in Japanese, but there was one section on the back in English. There were several sentences, some making more sense than others. There was one though, that stopped me in my tracks.
"The person you wait for will come but late".
For those of you who know me, you know the tears started to flow, right in the middle of this wide path leading to the temple. Yes, I know this. She is late, very late. And, I want her now.
We continued walking and came upon a wooden frame lined with wires. There were several fortunes that had been folded up and tied to the wires, for this is where you put the fortunes you don't like. My fortune is on the left.
Tuesday, July 18, 2006
It's Raining...
...and after a week of sticky, stifling, sweat producing humidity, the rain feels really good.
It was a holiday today, Marine Day to be exact, and Arny had the day off from work. We took the opportunity to take a train ride out to Jed's school which is in an area call Chofu. Rose, the woman we were meeting, said it would take about an hour to get there. However, she didn't account for the fact she was talking to two people who were not yet train literate and would spend at least ten minutes at each station figuring out what train to take, what direction to take the train in and what ticket to buy. You see, there were three separate trains, on three separate train lines, each requiring it's own ticket. Luckily, we knew our shortcomings in this area and allowed two hours to get there.
The ride out was not eventful, except for the fact that I was obsessed with looking at all of the umbrellas. Some people even had two, one for the sun (if it ever came out) and one for the rain. There were fancy ones and plastic ones, ones that perfectly matched their owners outfits, some with little tassels on the end, some just plain. They all had the same thing in common though - they were all perfectly folded!!! I watched in awe as each person would enter the train, sit and proceed to methodically straighten each fold before wrapping the tag around to fully close it.
Once we got there, our next mystery is to figure out exactly where the school was. I knew it was up the road from a temple, but when we looked at the town map, we realized there were several temples. Oh, did I mention the further out of downtown Tokyo you are the less English is spoken or written? I spotted a sign with the school's name and we walked toward it. Unfortunately, right away we were faced with a choice - right or left, with no addition sign indicating the correct way to the school. We guessed and started walking. Unfortunately, we guessed wrong, so we stopped in a 7-11 (yes, that 7-11 - they are everywhere) and asked, assuming they would know. They did, but didn't speak a word of English. Amazingly and so very kindly, the woman behind the counter came running out and found a young girl who could speak English and she gave us directions. We were so grateful, not just for the directions, but to be a country that was so accommodating. It makes every day so much easier to be surrounded by people who want to help you.
We made our way across the railroad tracks towards the school, passing the temple on the way. It seemed like a nice neighborhood, but like everything we have seen so far, congested, just like Tokyo. No grass, just home after home, one right next to each other. A few minutes later, we reached the school. It looked like an embassy with a big gate and a guard who asked for ID (he asked Arny - not me - that 'wife' thing again) and then handed us each a visitor pass on a lanyard we had to hang around our neck.
The school looked pretty typical except for the Japanese garden area in the center of the three connecting buildings that make up the school. They have a huge art room and science lab as well as a fully loaded kitchen where they hold cooking classes. Perhaps we can convince Jed to take the class and then come home and make dinner to show us what he learned - it would be a win-win for everybody.
It was a holiday today, Marine Day to be exact, and Arny had the day off from work. We took the opportunity to take a train ride out to Jed's school which is in an area call Chofu. Rose, the woman we were meeting, said it would take about an hour to get there. However, she didn't account for the fact she was talking to two people who were not yet train literate and would spend at least ten minutes at each station figuring out what train to take, what direction to take the train in and what ticket to buy. You see, there were three separate trains, on three separate train lines, each requiring it's own ticket. Luckily, we knew our shortcomings in this area and allowed two hours to get there.
The ride out was not eventful, except for the fact that I was obsessed with looking at all of the umbrellas. Some people even had two, one for the sun (if it ever came out) and one for the rain. There were fancy ones and plastic ones, ones that perfectly matched their owners outfits, some with little tassels on the end, some just plain. They all had the same thing in common though - they were all perfectly folded!!! I watched in awe as each person would enter the train, sit and proceed to methodically straighten each fold before wrapping the tag around to fully close it.
Once we got there, our next mystery is to figure out exactly where the school was. I knew it was up the road from a temple, but when we looked at the town map, we realized there were several temples. Oh, did I mention the further out of downtown Tokyo you are the less English is spoken or written? I spotted a sign with the school's name and we walked toward it. Unfortunately, right away we were faced with a choice - right or left, with no addition sign indicating the correct way to the school. We guessed and started walking. Unfortunately, we guessed wrong, so we stopped in a 7-11 (yes, that 7-11 - they are everywhere) and asked, assuming they would know. They did, but didn't speak a word of English. Amazingly and so very kindly, the woman behind the counter came running out and found a young girl who could speak English and she gave us directions. We were so grateful, not just for the directions, but to be a country that was so accommodating. It makes every day so much easier to be surrounded by people who want to help you.
We made our way across the railroad tracks towards the school, passing the temple on the way. It seemed like a nice neighborhood, but like everything we have seen so far, congested, just like Tokyo. No grass, just home after home, one right next to each other. A few minutes later, we reached the school. It looked like an embassy with a big gate and a guard who asked for ID (he asked Arny - not me - that 'wife' thing again) and then handed us each a visitor pass on a lanyard we had to hang around our neck.
The school looked pretty typical except for the Japanese garden area in the center of the three connecting buildings that make up the school. They have a huge art room and science lab as well as a fully loaded kitchen where they hold cooking classes. Perhaps we can convince Jed to take the class and then come home and make dinner to show us what he learned - it would be a win-win for everybody.
Monday, July 17, 2006
It's That Time Again
Oh yes, the period between the time the referral rumors start coming out and the actual referrals. It is a time where formerly normal and calm people (like me) become obsessed with any bit of information they can get their hands on. There is actually an entire blog devoted to these rumors. "The China Center for Adoption Affairs" (the government office that is in charge of international adoption and the one who matches the children to the parents) is moving", "The CCAA already moved", "they are going up to July 13", "the wait is going up to 18 months" -it's enough to give you a headache.
Our dossier was logged in on July 27, which means, if the above rumor is correct, we will not be getting our referral this month. Not that I really expected it.
Want it- yes.
Crave it - yes.
Wish for it - yes.
Yearn for it with all of my motherness - yes.
Expect it - no.
This very long process has taught me patience for things that I have no control over. To look at the positive aspect of the wait - we will be settled in our permanent apartment, Arny will be able to take more time off work, it will not be so hot and humid in China.
Right now my child seems very far away - although everywhere I am, I imagine how it will be with her. The subways will be a problem with a stroller - many stairs and escalators. There are little playgrounds tucked into corners of buildings and small parks. The sidewalks are uneven and start and stop for no reason. I will have to be careful.
Arny and I went to the grocery store yesterday and I mentioned with an escalator and stairs as the point of entry, a stroller would be very difficult to maneuver here. He suggested I bring the baby to his office and while I shopped, he would strap the baby into the hip carrier and work until I got back. The offer was only good for grocery shopping - not going to the spa.
Poo!!!
Our dossier was logged in on July 27, which means, if the above rumor is correct, we will not be getting our referral this month. Not that I really expected it.
Want it- yes.
Crave it - yes.
Wish for it - yes.
Yearn for it with all of my motherness - yes.
Expect it - no.
This very long process has taught me patience for things that I have no control over. To look at the positive aspect of the wait - we will be settled in our permanent apartment, Arny will be able to take more time off work, it will not be so hot and humid in China.
Right now my child seems very far away - although everywhere I am, I imagine how it will be with her. The subways will be a problem with a stroller - many stairs and escalators. There are little playgrounds tucked into corners of buildings and small parks. The sidewalks are uneven and start and stop for no reason. I will have to be careful.
Arny and I went to the grocery store yesterday and I mentioned with an escalator and stairs as the point of entry, a stroller would be very difficult to maneuver here. He suggested I bring the baby to his office and while I shopped, he would strap the baby into the hip carrier and work until I got back. The offer was only good for grocery shopping - not going to the spa.
Poo!!!
Saturday, July 15, 2006
The Umbrella
I have discovered two entirely new fashion accessories - the umbrella and washcloth/towel. I spent hours in three different department stores (more on this later) investigating the various kinds and in the process embarrassed myself and my entire culture.
Woman of all ages carry umbrellas to shield themselves from the sun as everyone, men and women alike, have an aversion to wearing sunglasses. This sun, coupled with the humidity, makes you sweat - a lot - hence the need for small washcloths or towels. After having spent several days walking around in the sun and humidity, the need for these items became evident.
I ventured into Ginza, the major shopping area and where the famous scene from "Lost in Translation" was filmed, to investigate the infamous Tokyo department stores and find myself a sun umbrella. While this area of Tokyo has many department stores to choose from, I concentrated on the three "M"s - Matsuya, Matsuzakaya and Mitsukoshi. All three are seven or eight stories high and filled with more stuff than you can imagine in the most random way. Children's clothes next to golf gear next to Kimonos. Each store has an entire area devoted to aprons, something I have never seen in the US.
The basement level is one big food market. There are little booths set up with every kind of food imaginable; all kinds of fish, grilled food, various kinds of desserts - I even saw one that sold bagels. The most amusing display though was usually on one of the top floors. This was where the food basket displays were. In Tokyo department stores, you can send your friends and family all kinds of gift baskets; from meat, fish and desserts to beer and juice. They actually had baskets filled with a dozen cans of ordinary beer and bottles of juice you could find in any grocery store. I stood there trying to imagine any circumstance where I would find this a good idea, as opposed to going to a grocery store and buying a six pack. Perhaps it is due to the Japanese skill in wrapping and presentation. Instead of pulling a six pack out of a paper bag, you can present it skillfully arranged in a basket with a bow.
But I digress - let's get back to the umbrellas and little towels. Each store also has an Umbrella section, usually on the first floor next to the little towel section. There you will find all kinds of umbrellas from all the major designers, some costing over $100. They coordinate with the little towels, also by designers - who knew Ralph Lauren and Lulu Guinness could do little towels and umbrellas? I realized immediately that I would be overwhelmed trying to decide on both an umbrella and a little towel in one day, so I stuck to the umbrella purchase.
Since there was a sale on, there were swarms of Japanese women huddled around the display, opening and closing each umbrella with a skill that must have taken years to develop. This is exactly the opposite of the U.S., where people open and close their umbrellas without a thought, the material being squished into whatever shape it takes as we wrap the thin strip of material around as fast as we can until the snaps meet. This is completely unacceptable in Japan. Closing the umbrella is an art, one that takes time as each woman gently folds her umbrella, taking care to return each fold of fabric back to its original shape. The large umbrellas are easy - it was the folding umbrellas that proved impossible, even as I observed both customers and saleswomen expertly folding theirs. I was getting disapproving looks(very polite disapproving looks) as I tried and failed miserably, my folded umbrella looking abused and very un-Japanese like. Perhaps in addition to the language lessons I will be taking soon, there is a class in umbrella folding I can take as well. I did buy an umbrella, which the salesperson took time to refold appropriately. When I returned to the apartment, I again made the attempt to fold my umbrella properly, but alas, my lovely little umbrella sits in a squished up pile on the table.
How sad.
Woman of all ages carry umbrellas to shield themselves from the sun as everyone, men and women alike, have an aversion to wearing sunglasses. This sun, coupled with the humidity, makes you sweat - a lot - hence the need for small washcloths or towels. After having spent several days walking around in the sun and humidity, the need for these items became evident.
I ventured into Ginza, the major shopping area and where the famous scene from "Lost in Translation" was filmed, to investigate the infamous Tokyo department stores and find myself a sun umbrella. While this area of Tokyo has many department stores to choose from, I concentrated on the three "M"s - Matsuya, Matsuzakaya and Mitsukoshi. All three are seven or eight stories high and filled with more stuff than you can imagine in the most random way. Children's clothes next to golf gear next to Kimonos. Each store has an entire area devoted to aprons, something I have never seen in the US.
The basement level is one big food market. There are little booths set up with every kind of food imaginable; all kinds of fish, grilled food, various kinds of desserts - I even saw one that sold bagels. The most amusing display though was usually on one of the top floors. This was where the food basket displays were. In Tokyo department stores, you can send your friends and family all kinds of gift baskets; from meat, fish and desserts to beer and juice. They actually had baskets filled with a dozen cans of ordinary beer and bottles of juice you could find in any grocery store. I stood there trying to imagine any circumstance where I would find this a good idea, as opposed to going to a grocery store and buying a six pack. Perhaps it is due to the Japanese skill in wrapping and presentation. Instead of pulling a six pack out of a paper bag, you can present it skillfully arranged in a basket with a bow.
But I digress - let's get back to the umbrellas and little towels. Each store also has an Umbrella section, usually on the first floor next to the little towel section. There you will find all kinds of umbrellas from all the major designers, some costing over $100. They coordinate with the little towels, also by designers - who knew Ralph Lauren and Lulu Guinness could do little towels and umbrellas? I realized immediately that I would be overwhelmed trying to decide on both an umbrella and a little towel in one day, so I stuck to the umbrella purchase.
Since there was a sale on, there were swarms of Japanese women huddled around the display, opening and closing each umbrella with a skill that must have taken years to develop. This is exactly the opposite of the U.S., where people open and close their umbrellas without a thought, the material being squished into whatever shape it takes as we wrap the thin strip of material around as fast as we can until the snaps meet. This is completely unacceptable in Japan. Closing the umbrella is an art, one that takes time as each woman gently folds her umbrella, taking care to return each fold of fabric back to its original shape. The large umbrellas are easy - it was the folding umbrellas that proved impossible, even as I observed both customers and saleswomen expertly folding theirs. I was getting disapproving looks(very polite disapproving looks) as I tried and failed miserably, my folded umbrella looking abused and very un-Japanese like. Perhaps in addition to the language lessons I will be taking soon, there is a class in umbrella folding I can take as well. I did buy an umbrella, which the salesperson took time to refold appropriately. When I returned to the apartment, I again made the attempt to fold my umbrella properly, but alas, my lovely little umbrella sits in a squished up pile on the table.
How sad.
Friday, July 14, 2006
Ignorance is Bliss
One thing I have noticed since being here is a suprising calmness in not knowing what is going on around me and the fun I am having figuring things out. Not speaking more than a few words of Japanese means that I am in a bit of a vacuum when it comes to communication. For example, in the grocery store yesterday, the checkout woman cheerfully said many words to me. Being the polite person I am supposed to be in Japan, my response was simply to shake my head and smile, not understanding a word of what she was saying. She then proceeded to take my things out of the little hand cart and ring it up, placing it gently into another little hand cart. When finished, she placed three plastic bags in the cart along with my purchases. I looked around wondering what to do. Do I get to take the little hand cart home with me? Perhaps I pack up my groceries myself, but where? In front of the checkout counters there is a shelf where people go after they pay. For some, this is for heating up the prepared food they have just purchased as there are microwaves lining the walls above. For me, it was the place I was supposed to stand and pack up my things into the plastic bags. Ah ha!!
Another area where I am blissfully enjoying my ignorance is in reading labels. I am a fairly health conscious person - not obsessing, but checking out labels for the least amount of additives, sugar, salt, etc. No luck here, because all of the labels look like this:
So, no more reading labels for me!! I figure since Japanese people have the highest life expectancy of anyone, they must be doing something right.
Speaking of food, this is Arny turning on the oven for the first time:
In his hand is one of the very valuable instruction sheets we have lying around the apartment. It is a combination oven and microwave and you have to push the right button or you nuke whatever it is you want to cook, or visa versa.
Coming soon - the answers to many of your "toilet" questions - the mystery of all of those mysterious buttons is being solved as I write...
Another area where I am blissfully enjoying my ignorance is in reading labels. I am a fairly health conscious person - not obsessing, but checking out labels for the least amount of additives, sugar, salt, etc. No luck here, because all of the labels look like this:
So, no more reading labels for me!! I figure since Japanese people have the highest life expectancy of anyone, they must be doing something right.
Speaking of food, this is Arny turning on the oven for the first time:
In his hand is one of the very valuable instruction sheets we have lying around the apartment. It is a combination oven and microwave and you have to push the right button or you nuke whatever it is you want to cook, or visa versa.
Coming soon - the answers to many of your "toilet" questions - the mystery of all of those mysterious buttons is being solved as I write...
Wednesday, July 12, 2006
A Day Later and Not So Many Yen
This morning I went to a Japanese grocery store called Pororoca. It is an escalator ride down from street level in the basement of an office building. Upon entering, you walk through a 100 yen store (yes, just like the dollar stores back home), then pass a dry cleaners and then comes the market. The prices were normal, except for the cantalope, which was still $15. While they carried a few recognizable things, Tropicana orange juice for example, most of the labels were entirely in Japanese. I bought what I am really sure is Salmon to make for dinner, what I am confident is yoghurt and several other things I absolutely knew what they were, like the sushi I bought for lunch.
Experienced my first yoga class - mmmmm, how do you say Namaste in Japanese??
Experienced my first yoga class - mmmmm, how do you say Namaste in Japanese??
Tuesday, July 11, 2006
Out and About
Food
Yes, food shopping here is expensive. Especially if you go to one of the several "International Supermarkets", which carry many items ex-pats can't seem to do without. Saw $15 cantalopes, $22 bottles of Tide detergent, $7 containers of blueberries, $9 boxes of Ziploc bags and poor Tess - she will no longer be eating Science Diet dog food when she arrives because it costs $16 a bag. Japanese items are not expensive, so if you can figure out exactly what you are buying you can do well. Surprisingly, there are some american foods that are not expensive....Jed, unlike Tess, your primary food source, Ritz crackers, are available at a normal price.
Subways
Intimidating, but brilliant once you get the hang of it. Thanks to my friend Jan, I learned that the entire system is coordinated and by looking at the subway map, you can determine what car to get into in order to get out at the correct exit for whereever it is you are going. Just like in New York, there are many entrances to each subway station. But unlike New York, you can figure how to get closest to where you need to be by looking at the signs in the subway. Each exit is numbered. You simply you get in the car with the same number. How is that possible, you wonder? Each subway car is numbered and the platform is numbered. When the subway enters the station and stops, the cars are automatically alligned with the numbers on the platform. When you get to where you are going, there are large signs listing major buildings, stores, monuments and the correct exit. And the best part? It is in English!!
Children
They are adorable. And, very little ones about 6 or 7 are on the trains by themselves. Again, thanks to Jan, I found out that as part of the education system here, children are required to take public transportation to school. Given the fact the city is so safe, kids go by themselves. And they wear really cute little uniforms too.
Yes, food shopping here is expensive. Especially if you go to one of the several "International Supermarkets", which carry many items ex-pats can't seem to do without. Saw $15 cantalopes, $22 bottles of Tide detergent, $7 containers of blueberries, $9 boxes of Ziploc bags and poor Tess - she will no longer be eating Science Diet dog food when she arrives because it costs $16 a bag. Japanese items are not expensive, so if you can figure out exactly what you are buying you can do well. Surprisingly, there are some american foods that are not expensive....Jed, unlike Tess, your primary food source, Ritz crackers, are available at a normal price.
Subways
Intimidating, but brilliant once you get the hang of it. Thanks to my friend Jan, I learned that the entire system is coordinated and by looking at the subway map, you can determine what car to get into in order to get out at the correct exit for whereever it is you are going. Just like in New York, there are many entrances to each subway station. But unlike New York, you can figure how to get closest to where you need to be by looking at the signs in the subway. Each exit is numbered. You simply you get in the car with the same number. How is that possible, you wonder? Each subway car is numbered and the platform is numbered. When the subway enters the station and stops, the cars are automatically alligned with the numbers on the platform. When you get to where you are going, there are large signs listing major buildings, stores, monuments and the correct exit. And the best part? It is in English!!
Children
They are adorable. And, very little ones about 6 or 7 are on the trains by themselves. Again, thanks to Jan, I found out that as part of the education system here, children are required to take public transportation to school. Given the fact the city is so safe, kids go by themselves. And they wear really cute little uniforms too.
Monday, July 10, 2006
First Day
Today, my first full day in Tokyo started with a chore. Well, not exactly. I was up at 3am and since nothing is open at that hour, I passed the time unpacking and reading the instructions for all of the appliances. Well, everything except for the toilet. You see, everything is written in Japanese, so I had to read the english directions for the dishwasher, television, telephone and iron. I felt like I was an alien on a different planet for the first time.
Speaking of aliens, since we will be in Tokyo for more than 90 days, I had to register my alien-ness at the local Minatu-ku (area in Tokyo where we are) ward office. The offical name for what I needed is an Alien Registration Certificate. After getting a map and directions from the consierge downstairs, I set off on foot for the estimated 20 minute walk. I was proud of myself for not getting lost and arriving on time. The lovely woman taking care of me must have said thank you a dozen or more times. "Thank you for showing me your passport", "thank you for filling out the form", "thank you for giving me your husband's name", "thank you", "thank you", "thank you". I must say, the New York postal employees could use a lesson in dealing with the public from this kind woman.
In addition to the alien registration certificate, I had to get another document saying I had applied for an alien registration certificate in order to get a cellphone. I don't know why, but that's what I needed so I asked the kind woman at the office for that as well and she thanked me for asking.
Mission accomplished and feeling very cocky at having made it there without getting lost, I promptly did exactly that on the way back. After a brief stop at a beautiful temple, I should have turned and didn't and ended up in a rather tacky part of Tokyo. Realizing I had made a mistake, I turned around and following the map, made my way back. By this time, the sun was starting to peak out and the humidity was rather stifling. By the time I got back to the apartment, I was dripping wet. Here are some pictures of my day......
Speaking of aliens, since we will be in Tokyo for more than 90 days, I had to register my alien-ness at the local Minatu-ku (area in Tokyo where we are) ward office. The offical name for what I needed is an Alien Registration Certificate. After getting a map and directions from the consierge downstairs, I set off on foot for the estimated 20 minute walk. I was proud of myself for not getting lost and arriving on time. The lovely woman taking care of me must have said thank you a dozen or more times. "Thank you for showing me your passport", "thank you for filling out the form", "thank you for giving me your husband's name", "thank you", "thank you", "thank you". I must say, the New York postal employees could use a lesson in dealing with the public from this kind woman.
In addition to the alien registration certificate, I had to get another document saying I had applied for an alien registration certificate in order to get a cellphone. I don't know why, but that's what I needed so I asked the kind woman at the office for that as well and she thanked me for asking.
Mission accomplished and feeling very cocky at having made it there without getting lost, I promptly did exactly that on the way back. After a brief stop at a beautiful temple, I should have turned and didn't and ended up in a rather tacky part of Tokyo. Realizing I had made a mistake, I turned around and following the map, made my way back. By this time, the sun was starting to peak out and the humidity was rather stifling. By the time I got back to the apartment, I was dripping wet. Here are some pictures of my day......
Ohayo from Tokyo
This is our toilet - I have no idea what those little buttons mean, and it will probably take me awhile to figure it out because while there are printed instructions on how to use just about everything in the apartment, there are no toilet instructions.
On the other hand, in the bathroom at the airport, which had a similar toilet, there were signs in English that explained everything. While using said toilet, I saw a button that said "Flushing Sound". I didn't see an actual handle, so I figured it to be the flusher. I was wrong. It was literally the sound of a flushing toilet - I suppose for those people who had potty training issues and forever need the sound of running water to go.
So there I am listening to the sound of a flushing toilet, wondering 1) how to make it stop, and 2) how to actually flush the toilet, praying no one came in and saw me, the silly American, playing with the "funny buttons" on the seat. I did finally find the handle and now I was listening to the real flush and the recorded flush, rushing to get out of the bathroom with two very heavy carry on bags, when a couple of Japanese women came in to the bathroom. I smiled politely and ran.....
Note to Michelle and Lori - same bathroom had a "child holder" in the stall. It was a little seat up against the wall, kind of like a highchair that you put your baby in while you go.....very convenient.
Monday, July 03, 2006
Arny's View of Tokyo
Banking Adventures
"I opened a bank account. I can get you a duplicate cash (ATM) card so you can access the account also, but you will need to be here and have the form that says you have applied for the alien registration card.
(got slightly lost trying to find the subway station to go to the bank- finally get to the branch, and its closed. Get on the ATM
phone, and complain that Website said they were open on Saturday -
find out the open office is 1/2 block away, so go there and open the
account. When I mention giving my wife a cash card on the account,
the account officer (a woman) asks me 'do you trust her?')"
NOTE: In Japan, joint bank accounts do not exist. The husband opens the account in his name and gives access to his wife.
Shopping Adventures
"Went to market and made dinner in the apartment - had to guess
what the salad dressing was (in fact had to guess that it was in fact
salad dressing at all) but it was, and was vaguely Italian. (not bad)
Could not for the life of me find rice in the supermarket, and could
not summon the courage to ask.
I also bought what I think is laundry detergent - we have a
combination washer-dryer in the apartment."
Street Signs
"You will see some very funny signs here. My favorite so far is in the plaza next to the apartment, every 20 feet or so is a sign which says "No Peeing" in both Enlish and Japanese."
"I opened a bank account. I can get you a duplicate cash (ATM) card so you can access the account also, but you will need to be here and have the form that says you have applied for the alien registration card.
(got slightly lost trying to find the subway station to go to the bank- finally get to the branch, and its closed. Get on the ATM
phone, and complain that Website said they were open on Saturday -
find out the open office is 1/2 block away, so go there and open the
account. When I mention giving my wife a cash card on the account,
the account officer (a woman) asks me 'do you trust her?')"
NOTE: In Japan, joint bank accounts do not exist. The husband opens the account in his name and gives access to his wife.
Shopping Adventures
"Went to market and made dinner in the apartment - had to guess
what the salad dressing was (in fact had to guess that it was in fact
salad dressing at all) but it was, and was vaguely Italian. (not bad)
Could not for the life of me find rice in the supermarket, and could
not summon the courage to ask.
I also bought what I think is laundry detergent - we have a
combination washer-dryer in the apartment."
Street Signs
"You will see some very funny signs here. My favorite so far is in the plaza next to the apartment, every 20 feet or so is a sign which says "No Peeing" in both Enlish and Japanese."
Saturday, July 01, 2006
In Between
Driving away from the apartment on Thursday night, it dawned on me that for the next ten days, I will be in-between. In between my old life in New York and my new one in Tokyo. I will be traveling to Florida and back to New York, depending on friends and family to provide me with the comforts of home because for the next ten days, I won't have one.
It was so strange seeing all of our stuff being loaded into that 20 foot container - my whole life in this solid rectangle of metal, being shipping halfway around the world. Will it all fit in the new apartment? Should it all fit in the new apartment?
Deciding what to take was hard given we have no idea what our new home will look like - we took enough to create the familiarity of home, but left room to add what will hopefully be familiar soon. The only thing I do know is that while Tess will be residing at the Biblowitz-Warmflash home until the holidays, her hair will be traveling to Tokyo because as anyone with a pug knows, you can leave the dog behind, but never the hair!!
It was so strange seeing all of our stuff being loaded into that 20 foot container - my whole life in this solid rectangle of metal, being shipping halfway around the world. Will it all fit in the new apartment? Should it all fit in the new apartment?
Deciding what to take was hard given we have no idea what our new home will look like - we took enough to create the familiarity of home, but left room to add what will hopefully be familiar soon. The only thing I do know is that while Tess will be residing at the Biblowitz-Warmflash home until the holidays, her hair will be traveling to Tokyo because as anyone with a pug knows, you can leave the dog behind, but never the hair!!
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